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Ovog ljeta Split - kao i čitava Hrvatska - uspješno obara turističke rekorde, zbog čega čitavo društvo napreduje, a građani prosperiraju. Naša obala je strancima naprosto neodoljiva i čini se da je se nikako ne mogu zasititi. Što god im ponudimo, oni bi uvijek još, još i još. A kakvi bismo mi bili domaćini da im to ne omogućimo?
Uostalom, svi ti beskonačni rekordi neće se oboriti sami.
I tako - polako, ali najsigurnije na svijetu - turizam se u ugurao u sve pore splitskog života. Hoćeš u centar - dole je turistički inferno. Hoćeš u restoran - tamo su turističke cijene. Hoćeš u klub - unutra je turističko mrijestilište.
Turizam je, đava ga odnija, opsjeo čak i onu jednu jedinu stvar koju su Hrvati - iz još logički nedokučivih i moguće praznovjernih pobuda - odlučili sačuvati od čudotvornog dodira privatizacije. Plaže.
Iako je pomorsko dobro, pokazalo se, jedina stvar koju hrvatski porezni obveznici ne dopuštaju da im se ukrade, a njegova obrana posljednje preostalo što ih može natjerati da uopće promisle na prosvjed, nekim paranormalnim razlogom je građanstvu potpuno normalno motorima, autima, kombijima, kamperima, autobusima, vlakovima, jedrilicama, jahtama, kruzerima, avionima - a možda uskoro i bagerima - zatrpavati plaže našim dragim gostima tako da se od njih više ne vidi ni naše drago žalo, ni naši dragi tamarisi, ni naše drago more.
A sada, nakon pijeska Bačvica i Firula, oblutaka Obojene i Kašjuna te kamenčića Trstenika i Žnjana, zadnje što je nestalo pod stopama rasta lokalnih turističkih brojki je - plato na "Jadrana".
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- Cili život se tu kupan s ekipon iz kvarta, al sad mi se gadi. Nekidan san se spustila, prvi put ovo lito. Osin šta je kupaći dio svake godine sve manji, i to zbog kafića koji se, za razliku od drugih gradskih štekata, lipo širi, ljudi je sve više i više. Stranaca da ne govorin... Taj dan san ih vidila koliko bi nekad u cilo lito. Još sad doli trešti neka seljačka muzika, šta nikad prije nije. Pa su mi neka dica kraj glave skinila patike i ostavila ih tu. Kad san ih zamolila da ih maknu, samo su mutavo blenili u mene, ka da nikad nisu pričali sa čovikon uživo. Ufff, ljuta san... Sve mi se pari da san izgubila još jedno misto u gradu di se mogu lipo na miru doć okupat - požalila nam se studentica Klara s Meja.
Ipak, kako nas je Alan Ford naučio da "ne treba vjerovati ženi koja laže", odlučili smo se na vlastite oči uvjeriti što se to događa na jednom od omiljenih splitskih kupališta.
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I, stvarno, puno je. I, stvarno, stranaca je nikad više. I, stvarno, muzika je nikad glasnija. Sad, je li nikad lošija, teško je reći, pošto prije ne bi baš dolazila do izražaja. A, osim toga, o ukusima se ne raspravlja. Zato ćemo, umjesto rasprave, jednostavno ustvrditi: loša je.
Na stolici pokraj ulaza sjedi sredovječna gospođa. Budući da se čini prilično ležerna u korištenju nasumične stolice, pretpostavljamo da je "naša" te joj se obraćamo na našem.
- Excuse me? - pita zbunjeno, prenuta iz konzumiranja fino odležane dalmatinske fjake.
Zove se Brigitte i Austrijanka je. Pitamo je: "Brigitte, kako ste, dovraga, i vi završili na ‘Jadrana‘?!"
- Guglali smo i bila je to najbliža plaža našem smještaju. Sviđa li mi se? Pa i ne baš. Zašto? Pa jer... nije plaža. Očekivala sam šljunak ili barem stijene. Ovo mi je nekako... Bezveze. Plus što je previše ljudi. Ne možeš ni u more ući kako treba. Zapravo, čitavo putovanje Hrvatskom su nam obilježile velike gužve. Prepuno je turista... Znam, znam... I ja sam jedna od njih. Ali, samo želim reći da bi bilo ljepše da je manje ljudi. I, svakako, autentičnije. A vama je grad krcat i još primate one ogromne kruzere u luku. Stvarno, ne znam što bih rekla na to - raskolačenih očiju širi ruke Brigitte.
"Dobrodošli u Hrvatsku", uzvraćamo joj toplim i dobro uvježbanim osmijehom domaćina. Nego, odakle stolica, čudimo se.
- A to... Vidjela sam jednu ženu da je uzela tu sa hrpe, pa sam rekla: Zašto ne bih i ja? - smije se ova, po hitnom postupku naturalizirana kupačica na "Jadrana".
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Probijamo se kroz turističke rekorde i dolazimo do neturističkog dijela kafića. Tu nailazimo na stol okupiran od grupice Francuza. Uživaju u hrvatskom štekatu, hrvatskom pivu i pogledu na hrvatske otoke. A kakva im je atmosfera na Jadrana?
- Veoma domaća. To nam se baš sviđa ovdje. Nije kao u ostatku grada, gdje ne možeš pobjeći od turista. Upravo komentiramo da smo pogodili s ovim mjestom - oduševljeni su što još ipak postoji nešto autentično u Splitu.
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Doduše, imaju i jednu zamjerku.
- Šokirani smo cijenama. Pa kao u Francuskoj su! Nismo to očekivali... Kako vi ovdje preživite sa svojim plaćama? - gledaju nas u čudu. Očito, u turističkim brošurama ne piše kako svi Hrvati žive kao bubreg u loju od masovnog turizma.
Zanima ih zašto postoji skalina na nogometnom terenu. Kažemo im da je to zato da se stranci ne usude zauzeti i njega. Smijemo se. U stvari, oni se smiju, a mi se pretvaramo da je to bila šala.
A koji je ono tamo čovjek kojega svi slikavaju? "Ma", odmahujemo rukom, "jedan lokalni nogometaš, nije uopće vrijedan spomena". Jasno, nismo ludi; nećemo da nam i njega otmu.
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Na odlasku prilazimo konobaru naslonjenom na šank. Broji manču, dok mu graška znoja pleše po laktu.
- Skužaj, jel ti radiš odi već koju sezonu? - pitamo.
- Jesan - odgovara.
- Jel ti se pari da je ikad bilo ovoliko stranaca - još malo pitamo.
- Nikad. Al to ti je zato šta ovo lito nema Žnjana - objašnjava.
I, stvarno, u pravu je. Žnjan stvarno ima puno našeg zajedničkog pomorskog dobra. Jedva čekamo da nam ga ponovo zauzmu stranci pa nam dozvole da se kupamo tamo gdje se kupamo cijeli život.
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Kraj izlaza sjedi žena oko koje se skupilo četvero-petero djece. Naša je. A oni su njezini.
Dugogodišnja je uživateljica jadranskog platoa i sigurna je da nikad tu nije bilo toliko stranaca. Pa, je li joj to možda smeta?
- A smeta il ne smeta, isto mi je. Ol me ko šta pita? Osin toga, iman dovoljno svog posla i svojih briga... Ionako ništa ne mogu učinit. Šta je, tu je. Ima ko se bavi s tin stvarima... Valjda. Al da smeta, smeta. Bilo je lipše prije... Više prostora za dicu za igrat se, a moglo se čak i skočit u more i zaplivat - sjeća se Splićanka mogućnosti plivanja na "Jadrana".
Njezinoj djeci se pak danas, umjesto plivanja, na ovom mjestu preostaje samo utapati u - turističkim rekordima.
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title=Splićani oplakuju zadnju plažu koja je kapitulirala, tu su krili i Livaju: 'Cili život se odi kupan, al sad mi se gadi'
[metakey] => Split, Jadran, plaža, turizam, turisti
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Kupali\u0161te uz bazen Jadrana na Zvon\u010dacu<\/p>","","
Turiste zanima za\u0161to postoji skalina na nogometnom terenu. Ka\u017eemo im da je to zato da se stranci ne usude zauzeti i njega<\/p>","
Na Jadrana<\/p>","
Sve su zauzeli, a od muzike se ne \u010duju ni vlastite misli<\/p>","","
Biser ispod Sustipana<\/p>","
Za sve je kriv \u017dnjan! Da tamo funkcioniraju stvari, ne bi bila ovakva najezda na \u2018Jadrana\u2018<\/p>","
Idila na \u010duvenom igrali\u0161tu<\/p>","
Na \u2018Jadrana\u2018<\/p>","
\u010covik na \u010doviku<\/p>","","","
Nema\u0161 di sko\u010dit u more<\/p>","","","
\u010cetvero prijatelja iz Francuske<\/p>","","
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[multi_author] => 0
[type_id] => 100
[category] => TableOCMCategory Object
(
[id] => 253
[name] => Split
[alias] => split
[description] =>
[parent] => 240
[extraFieldsGroup] => 9
[published] => 1
[image] =>
[access] => 1
[ordering] => 14
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[trash] => 0
[plugins] => {"customparams_created":"2019-11-04 19:44:34","customparams_modified":"2019-11-04 19:44:34","customparams_videobg":"","customparams_countdown_module":"","customparams_search_template":""}
[language] => *
[container] => 0
[container_name] =>
[_tbl:protected] => #__ocm_categories
[_tbl_key:protected] => id
[_tbl_keys:protected] => Array
(
[0] => id
)
[_db:protected] => JDatabaseDriverMysqli_Exabyte Object
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[name] => mysqli
[serverType] => mysql
[connection:protected] => mysqli Object
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[client_info] => mysqlnd 5.0.12-dev - 20150407 - $Id: 7cc7cc96e675f6d72e5cf0f267f48e167c2abb23 $
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[connect_errno] => 0
[connect_error] =>
[errno] => 0
[error] =>
[error_list] => Array
(
)
[field_count] => 18
[host_info] => 127.0.0.1 via TCP/IP
[info] =>
[insert_id] => 0
[server_info] => 5.5.30
[server_version] => 50530
[stat] => Uptime: 4190285 Threads: 4 Questions: 127694911 Slow queries: 55182
[sqlstate] => 00000
[protocol_version] => 10
[thread_id] => 3860862
[warning_count] => 0
)
[nameQuote:protected] => `
[nullDate:protected] => 0000-00-00 00:00:00
[_database:JDatabaseDriver:private] => sdproductiondb
[count:protected] => 48
[cursor:protected] =>
[debug:protected] =>
[limit:protected] => 0
[log:protected] => Array
(
)
[timings:protected] => Array
(
)
[callStacks:protected] => Array
(
)
[offset:protected] => 0
[options:protected] => Array
(
[driver] => mysqli_exabyte
[host] => 127.0.0.1
[user] => proxy_user_front04
[password] => b3hX5DrKwjx6
[database] => sdproductiondb
[prefix] => sk_
[select] => 1
[port] => 6033
[socket] =>
)
[sql:protected] => JDatabaseQueryMysqli Object
(
[offset:protected] => 0
[limit:protected] => 0
[db:protected] => JDatabaseDriverMysqli_Exabyte Object
*RECURSION*
[sql:protected] =>
[type:protected] => select
[element:protected] =>
[select:protected] => JDatabaseQueryElement Object
(
[name:protected] => SELECT
[elements:protected] => Array
(
[0] => category.*
[1] => IF(ISNULL(container.catid),false,true) AS container
[2] => container.name AS container_name
[3] => SEFURL_cr.menuItemID AS sefurl_belonging_menu_item
)
[glue:protected] => ,
)
[delete:protected] =>
[update:protected] =>
[insert:protected] =>
[from:protected] => JDatabaseQueryElement Object
(
[name:protected] => FROM
[elements:protected] => Array
(
[0] => `#__ocm_categories` AS `category`
)
[glue:protected] => ,
)
[join:protected] => Array
(
[0] => JDatabaseQueryElement Object
(
[name:protected] => LEFT JOIN
[elements:protected] => Array
(
[0] => #__ocm_containers AS container ON category.id = container.catid
)
[glue:protected] => ,
)
[1] => JDatabaseQueryElement Object
(
[name:protected] => LEFT JOIN
[elements:protected] => Array
(
[0] => #__ocm_sefurl_category_menu_relation AS SEFURL_cr ON category.id = SEFURL_cr.categoryID
)
[glue:protected] => ,
)
)
[set:protected] =>
[where:protected] => JDatabaseQueryElement Object
(
[name:protected] => WHERE
[elements:protected] => Array
(
[0] => `category`.`id` = '240'
)
[glue:protected] => AND
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Ovog ljeta Split - kao i čitava Hrvatska - uspješno obara turističke rekorde, zbog čega čitavo društvo napreduje, a građani prosperiraju. Naša obala je strancima naprosto neodoljiva i čini se da je se nikako ne mogu zasititi. Što god im ponudimo, oni bi uvijek još, još i još. A kakvi bismo mi bili domaćini da im to ne omogućimo?
Uostalom, svi ti beskonačni rekordi neće se oboriti sami.
I tako - polako, ali najsigurnije na svijetu - turizam se u ugurao u sve pore splitskog života. Hoćeš u centar - dole je turistički inferno. Hoćeš u restoran - tamo su turističke cijene. Hoćeš u klub - unutra je turističko mrijestilište.
Turizam je, đava ga odnija, opsjeo čak i onu jednu jedinu stvar koju su Hrvati - iz još logički nedokučivih i moguće praznovjernih pobuda - odlučili sačuvati od čudotvornog dodira privatizacije. Plaže.
Iako je pomorsko dobro, pokazalo se, jedina stvar koju hrvatski porezni obveznici ne dopuštaju da im se ukrade, a njegova obrana posljednje preostalo što ih može natjerati da uopće promisle na prosvjed, nekim paranormalnim razlogom je građanstvu potpuno normalno motorima, autima, kombijima, kamperima, autobusima, vlakovima, jedrilicama, jahtama, kruzerima, avionima - a možda uskoro i bagerima - zatrpavati plaže našim dragim gostima tako da se od njih više ne vidi ni naše drago žalo, ni naši dragi tamarisi, ni naše drago more.
A sada, nakon pijeska Bačvica i Firula, oblutaka Obojene i Kašjuna te kamenčića Trstenika i Žnjana, zadnje što je nestalo pod stopama rasta lokalnih turističkih brojki je - plato na "Jadrana".
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- Cili život se tu kupan s ekipon iz kvarta, al sad mi se gadi. Nekidan san se spustila, prvi put ovo lito. Osin šta je kupaći dio svake godine sve manji, i to zbog kafića koji se, za razliku od drugih gradskih štekata, lipo širi, ljudi je sve više i više. Stranaca da ne govorin... Taj dan san ih vidila koliko bi nekad u cilo lito. Još sad doli trešti neka seljačka muzika, šta nikad prije nije. Pa su mi neka dica kraj glave skinila patike i ostavila ih tu. Kad san ih zamolila da ih maknu, samo su mutavo blenili u mene, ka da nikad nisu pričali sa čovikon uživo. Ufff, ljuta san... Sve mi se pari da san izgubila još jedno misto u gradu di se mogu lipo na miru doć okupat - požalila nam se studentica Klara s Meja.
Ipak, kako nas je Alan Ford naučio da "ne treba vjerovati ženi koja laže", odlučili smo se na vlastite oči uvjeriti što se to događa na jednom od omiljenih splitskih kupališta.
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I, stvarno, puno je. I, stvarno, stranaca je nikad više. I, stvarno, muzika je nikad glasnija. Sad, je li nikad lošija, teško je reći, pošto prije ne bi baš dolazila do izražaja. A, osim toga, o ukusima se ne raspravlja. Zato ćemo, umjesto rasprave, jednostavno ustvrditi: loša je.
Na stolici pokraj ulaza sjedi sredovječna gospođa. Budući da se čini prilično ležerna u korištenju nasumične stolice, pretpostavljamo da je "naša" te joj se obraćamo na našem.
- Excuse me? - pita zbunjeno, prenuta iz konzumiranja fino odležane dalmatinske fjake.
Zove se Brigitte i Austrijanka je. Pitamo je: "Brigitte, kako ste, dovraga, i vi završili na ‘Jadrana‘?!"
- Guglali smo i bila je to najbliža plaža našem smještaju. Sviđa li mi se? Pa i ne baš. Zašto? Pa jer... nije plaža. Očekivala sam šljunak ili barem stijene. Ovo mi je nekako... Bezveze. Plus što je previše ljudi. Ne možeš ni u more ući kako treba. Zapravo, čitavo putovanje Hrvatskom su nam obilježile velike gužve. Prepuno je turista... Znam, znam... I ja sam jedna od njih. Ali, samo želim reći da bi bilo ljepše da je manje ljudi. I, svakako, autentičnije. A vama je grad krcat i još primate one ogromne kruzere u luku. Stvarno, ne znam što bih rekla na to - raskolačenih očiju širi ruke Brigitte.
"Dobrodošli u Hrvatsku", uzvraćamo joj toplim i dobro uvježbanim osmijehom domaćina. Nego, odakle stolica, čudimo se.
- A to... Vidjela sam jednu ženu da je uzela tu sa hrpe, pa sam rekla: Zašto ne bih i ja? - smije se ova, po hitnom postupku naturalizirana kupačica na "Jadrana".
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Probijamo se kroz turističke rekorde i dolazimo do neturističkog dijela kafića. Tu nailazimo na stol okupiran od grupice Francuza. Uživaju u hrvatskom štekatu, hrvatskom pivu i pogledu na hrvatske otoke. A kakva im je atmosfera na Jadrana?
- Veoma domaća. To nam se baš sviđa ovdje. Nije kao u ostatku grada, gdje ne možeš pobjeći od turista. Upravo komentiramo da smo pogodili s ovim mjestom - oduševljeni su što još ipak postoji nešto autentično u Splitu.
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Doduše, imaju i jednu zamjerku.
- Šokirani smo cijenama. Pa kao u Francuskoj su! Nismo to očekivali... Kako vi ovdje preživite sa svojim plaćama? - gledaju nas u čudu. Očito, u turističkim brošurama ne piše kako svi Hrvati žive kao bubreg u loju od masovnog turizma.
Zanima ih zašto postoji skalina na nogometnom terenu. Kažemo im da je to zato da se stranci ne usude zauzeti i njega. Smijemo se. U stvari, oni se smiju, a mi se pretvaramo da je to bila šala.
A koji je ono tamo čovjek kojega svi slikavaju? "Ma", odmahujemo rukom, "jedan lokalni nogometaš, nije uopće vrijedan spomena". Jasno, nismo ludi; nećemo da nam i njega otmu.
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Na odlasku prilazimo konobaru naslonjenom na šank. Broji manču, dok mu graška znoja pleše po laktu.
- Skužaj, jel ti radiš odi već koju sezonu? - pitamo.
- Jesan - odgovara.
- Jel ti se pari da je ikad bilo ovoliko stranaca - još malo pitamo.
- Nikad. Al to ti je zato šta ovo lito nema Žnjana - objašnjava.
I, stvarno, u pravu je. Žnjan stvarno ima puno našeg zajedničkog pomorskog dobra. Jedva čekamo da nam ga ponovo zauzmu stranci pa nam dozvole da se kupamo tamo gdje se kupamo cijeli život.
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Kraj izlaza sjedi žena oko koje se skupilo četvero-petero djece. Naša je. A oni su njezini.
Dugogodišnja je uživateljica jadranskog platoa i sigurna je da nikad tu nije bilo toliko stranaca. Pa, je li joj to možda smeta?
- A smeta il ne smeta, isto mi je. Ol me ko šta pita? Osin toga, iman dovoljno svog posla i svojih briga... Ionako ništa ne mogu učinit. Šta je, tu je. Ima ko se bavi s tin stvarima... Valjda. Al da smeta, smeta. Bilo je lipše prije... Više prostora za dicu za igrat se, a moglo se čak i skočit u more i zaplivat - sjeća se Splićanka mogućnosti plivanja na "Jadrana".
Njezinoj djeci se pak danas, umjesto plivanja, na ovom mjestu preostaje samo utapati u - turističkim rekordima.
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Paun Paunović/Cropix
Turiste zanima zašto postoji skalina na nogometnom terenu. Kažemo im da je to zato da se stranci ne usude zauzeti i njega
Paun Paunović/Cropix
Za sve je kriv Žnjan! Da tamo funkcioniraju stvari, ne bi bila ovakva najezda na ‘Jadrana‘
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12. svibanj 2024 16:26
