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[title] => Već 64 godine jedan su od centara gastronomije cetinskog kraja. Vlasnik Grubišić Čabo otkriva nam tajnu dugovječnosti
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Kad je davne 1959. godine u Jabuci kod Trilja na lokalitetu Gaz otvorena krčma "Gaz", njezin je današnji vlasnik Boris Grubišić Čabo imao pet godina; moglo bi se reći – u krčmi je i prohodao.
Ipak, ugostiteljstvo ga nije posvema obuzelo; bio je visoko rangirani vojni časnik, privatnik i trgovački putnik koji je – sam naziv zanimanja govori – puno putovao. Ipak, svi su putovi vodili ka rodnom Gazu i obiteljskom imanju na kojemu je iz onomad glasovite krčme proširen objekt preimenovan u restoran "Premijer" te naknadno dopunjen mnogim sadržajima, poput igrališta za djecu, nogometnog igrališta, terena za konje uz mogućnost mimohoda kočija...
Za sve je te novitade, pak, zaslužan upravo Boris Grubišić Čabo, čovjek koji dokazano vidi ispred vremena – čak i kad se vraća u prošlost.
A taj povratak u prošlost – štoviše, u daleku povijest prije Krista i doba antike, starog Rima – gastronomskog je predznaka. Riječju, ono što možete pojesti u "Premijeru" teško ćete moći naručiti bilo gdje – na svijetu!
- Imamo antičke specijalitete koje smo kuhali po naputcima iz kuharice autorice Ivane Ožanić Roguljić, inače arheologinje, njih smo tradicionalno pripremali i u Splitu na "Danima Dioklecijana". Tu smo pripoznali neku svoju prednost u odnosu na druge – veli starina Grubišić Čabo, koji je na ideju o kreiranju antičkog jelovnika u Jabuci kod Trilja došao slušajući jednu radijsku emisiju dok se vozio automobilom u Zagreb.
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- Slušan ja kako se prepiru Triljani i Sinjani čiji je Gaj Liberije. I onda mi je sinulo da bi ih ja moga pomirit tako da osmislin utakmicu Dalmate - Rimljani, nogometnu, koja će ih primirit i povezat – prisjeća se Boris iz Jabuke, koji nije bacio jabuku razdora, nego sloge među građane dva istaknuta grada Cetinske krajine.
Uživa se i u uvoznim žabama
Na rimski nogomet nadovezala se i spiza, pa tako jedino u "Premijera" možete pojesti antičke kruščiće od dvije vrste pšenice, obogaćene s čak pet vrsta sireva (Libum), kobasice Lucanicae (Lukanijeve kobasice), odojka pečenog s medom i začinjenog lovorom (Porcellum Olaureatum), teletinu s umakom na starorimski (Vitulinam Elixam), pastrvu u umaku od trava (Piscibus), i druge neobične delicije s okusom drevne prošlosti. Od slatkoga na tom tragu u "Premijeru" pripremaju okruglice s medom (Globos), Dulciju Domesticu ili domaću poslasticu (na bazi datulja), ili pak "patinu od krušaka" (Patina de Piris). Muslum ili vino s medom posebno je zanimljiva delicija koja se pije uz bilo što.
Jedan od tajnih začina jela je - također antički – Garum. Taj se dobiva od usoljene ribe različitih vrsta, "krasi ga" veoma neugodan vonj kad poprima tekuće agregatno stanje, ali u kombinaciji sa sveprisutnim medom jelo začinjeno garumom poprima obrise prave simfonije na tanjuru. Lovora također ima u mnogočemu (i to ne samo kao dekoracija), u "Premijeru" su uistinu uspjeli rekonstruirati antiku na pjatu, u kojemu nema jedino – divljih golubova, popularnih jestvina u to davno vrijeme. Danas asocijacija na golubove malo kome može otvoriti apetit...
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- To nemamo, a u zadnje vrime nam je sve teže nabavit i riječne rakove; jednostavno ih nema, niti iz uvoza. Žabe ipak rješavamo iz uvoza, najbolje su turske, najsličnije našima. Kineske se nisu pokazale tako kvalitetne. Domaćih žaba? Nema ih odavno! Valjda se klima prominila, zagađenja su učinila svoje, nešto žaba jedino se može u Bosni nać, to je najbliže di još krekeću. Mi se, kažem, pokrivamo iz turskog uvoza – napominje naš sugovornik.
Zelenjak bogatiji blitvom od soparnika
U vrijeme kad su krčmu "Gaz" vodili njegovi roditelji, pokojna Slavka (Slava, idemo kod Slave, govorili su ljudi) i također pokojni Ivan, već su oboje bili oboružani iskustvom rada u drugim objektima, kod drugih vlasnika prije osamostaljenja. Bio je to sam početak šezdesetih, svijet je tresla seksualna revolucija, Beatlesi su osvajali europsku scenu, a na Gazu je bila u toku melioracija rijeke Rude, što je značilo puno gladnih radnika koji su se krijepili domaćom spizom upravo u krčmi "Gaz".
No, uz (zemljo)radničku klasu na putu za polja, u "Gazu" su jeli i oni puno finćukastiji, kojima također nisu bile mrske dobre i kripne pjatance.
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- Dolazila je kod Slave i Ivana, mojih roditelja, i gospoda iz Sinja pa čak i onda dalekog Splita. Bija je čuven još onda naš pivac lešo, pečena janjetina, domaći pršut i sir, žabe i rakovi na svakojake načine pripremljeni, pastrva pečena ili lešo...
Tada je se jila i lizibaka – riba sitna, a delikatesna. Od nje bi se napravila juva, a onda bi se kuvane ribice pripremile ka za salatu: prolila bi se po njima kvasina, ulje, posula narizana kapula. Nema više lizibaki; otkad mi je otac umra, nisan je više vidija – malko se rastuži gazda.
Ono što je u restoranu ipak ostalo od davnina jesu i pivac, i janjac, žabe, doduše iz uvoza, ali i originalni zelenjak. To je lokalna riječ za ono što mi poznajemo kao "soparnik".
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- Soparnik je u Poljičkoj republici bija teži za napravit jer je tamo slabije rasla blitva nego u Sinjskom polju. Zato su joj, da je pojačaju kad je nestašica, dodavali kapulu. Ovde je blitve bilo uvik u izobilju, pa nam kapula ka "aditiv" nije tribala. Zato je naš "soparnik" zeleniji, otud naziv "zelenjak". Samo malo ulja i češnjaka po vrhu, sve drugo je devedeset posto zelen, blitva – pojašnjava.
Iskorak prema burgerima
Adut "Premijerove" kuhinje od davnina je i orzotto sa žabama, a bez uštipka i domaćeg kajmaka nema pravog starta. Normalno, i koja žestica uvijek dobro dođe...
Otprije nekog vremena, nakon što je krčma "Gaz" devedesetih godina postala restoran "Premijer Gaz", u ponudi su i – pizze.
- Mora san, puno nam dice dolazi ovde na izlete, najviše zbog prirode i konja – kao da se malko opravdava naš domaćin.
Treba pratiti trendove ako želiš opstati na tržištu, gurmani znaju što je rijetka i dobra pjatanca, ali puno ljudi želi se jednostavno i dobro najesti – pogotovo prosječni turisti, kojima gastronomski storytelling ne znači previše. Zato "Premijer" uvodi još jednu novitadu.
---
---
- Glavna kuharica je jedna od mojih kćeri, Andrea Gilić, i druge dvije rade u "Premijeru" (sin je u državnoj službi). Andrea radi sve, čak i soparnik, to jest zelenjak, ali triba ić naprid. Zato smo uz konzultantsku pomoć repera i kralja burgera Renmena (Renata Đošića, nap.a.) uveli liniju premium Premijer burgera, s najboljim domaćim mesom, povrćem iz lokalne nabave i friškim bublicama. Krećemo s tim od sredine siječnja – to ne znači da i dalje nećemo imat antička jela i ova autohtona, po kojima smo čuveni od samog početka – napominje stari gazda poduzetnog, mladalačkog duha.
Pitamo ga koji je "slatki forte" kuće, uz spomenute antičke poslastice.
- Palačinki ima uvik. I štrudela od jabuke, pite od jabuka. Red je, ipak smo u Jabuci – namiguje Boris Grubišić Čabo, prvi čovjek "Premijera".
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title=Već 64 godine jedan su od centara gastronomije cetinskog kraja. Vlasnik Grubišić Čabo otkriva nam tajnu dugovječnosti
page_title=Već 64 godine jedan su od centara gastronomije cetinskog kraja. Vlasnik Grubišić Čabo otkriva nam tajnu dugovječnosti
[metakey] => restoran premijer gaz, jabuka, Trilj, Boris Grubisic Cabo, krčma gaz, žabe, antička gastronomija, zelenjak, autohtona jela, pizza, burger, gurmani, renmen, Ivana Ožanić Roguljić, andrea gilić, Cetinska krajina
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Boris Grubi\u0161i\u0107 \u010cabo, vlasnik restorana \u2018Premijer Gaz\u2018 u Jabuci,\u00a0 s dijelom delicija koje se nude gostima
\n\u00a0<\/p>","
Pohane \u017eabe<\/p>","
\u017dabe s\u00a0 pr\u0161utom<\/p>","
Feta sir s maslinama i lovorom<\/p>","
Dio restoranske ponude\u00a0<\/p>","
Spiza i kamin, idila<\/p>","
Restoran \u2018Premijer Gaz\u2018<\/p>","
\u00a0Karmen Ivi\u0161i\u0107 i Viktor Bilokapi\u0107
\n\u00a0<\/p>","
Jelovnik anti\u010dke hrane
\n\u00a0<\/p>","
Jelovnik anti\u010dke hrane<\/p>","
\u00a0 Anti\u010dki jelovnik<\/p>","
\u00a0An\u0111ela Cvitanovi\u0107<\/p>","
\u00a0Boris Grubi\u0161i\u0107 \u010cabo, vlasnik restorana \u2018Premijer Gaz\u2018 u Jabuci,\u00a0 s dijelom delicija koje se nude gostima<\/p>","
\u00a0Boris Grubi\u0161i\u0107 \u010cabo na ideju o kreiranju anti\u010dkog jelovnika u Jabuci kod Trilja do\u0161ao je slu\u0161aju\u0107i jednu radijsku emisiju dok se vozio automobilom u Zagreb<\/p>","
\u00a0Boris Grubi\u0161i\u0107 \u010cabo: Dolazila je kod Slave i Ivana, mojih roditelja, i gospoda iz Sinja pa \u010dak i onda dalekog Splita. Bija je \u010duven\u00a0 na\u0161 pivac le\u0161o, pe\u010dena janjetina, doma\u0107i pr\u0161ut i sir, \u017eabe i rakovi, pastrva...<\/p>","
Restoran \u2018Premijer Gaz\u2018<\/p>","
Primamljuju\u0107a restoranska ponuda<\/p>","
\u00a0Jestvine iz restorana<\/p>","
\u00a0Boris Grubi\u0161i\u0107 \u010cabo, \u010dovjek koji dokazano vidi ispred vremena \u2013 \u010dak i kad se vra\u0107a u pro\u0161lost<\/p>","
Stolovi za gurmane bez granica<\/p>","
Unutra\u0161njost restorana<\/p>","
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Ne mo\u017ee se bez Alke<\/p>","
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\u00a0Restoran \u2018Premijer Gaz\u2018 razvio se na ba\u0161tini kr\u010dme Gaz koju su vodili Borisovi roditelji,\u00a0 Slavka\u00a0i\u00a0Ivan Grubi\u0161i\u0107\u00a0 \u010cabo<\/p>","
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Restoran obitelji Grubišić - Čabo u Jabuci
Joško Šupić/Cropix
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Kad je davne 1959. godine u Jabuci kod Trilja na lokalitetu Gaz otvorena krčma "Gaz", njezin je današnji vlasnik Boris Grubišić Čabo imao pet godina; moglo bi se reći – u krčmi je i prohodao.
Ipak, ugostiteljstvo ga nije posvema obuzelo; bio je visoko rangirani vojni časnik, privatnik i trgovački putnik koji je – sam naziv zanimanja govori – puno putovao. Ipak, svi su putovi vodili ka rodnom Gazu i obiteljskom imanju na kojemu je iz onomad glasovite krčme proširen objekt preimenovan u restoran "Premijer" te naknadno dopunjen mnogim sadržajima, poput igrališta za djecu, nogometnog igrališta, terena za konje uz mogućnost mimohoda kočija...
Za sve je te novitade, pak, zaslužan upravo Boris Grubišić Čabo, čovjek koji dokazano vidi ispred vremena – čak i kad se vraća u prošlost.
A taj povratak u prošlost – štoviše, u daleku povijest prije Krista i doba antike, starog Rima – gastronomskog je predznaka. Riječju, ono što možete pojesti u "Premijeru" teško ćete moći naručiti bilo gdje – na svijetu!
- Imamo antičke specijalitete koje smo kuhali po naputcima iz kuharice autorice Ivane Ožanić Roguljić, inače arheologinje, njih smo tradicionalno pripremali i u Splitu na "Danima Dioklecijana". Tu smo pripoznali neku svoju prednost u odnosu na druge – veli starina Grubišić Čabo, koji je na ideju o kreiranju antičkog jelovnika u Jabuci kod Trilja došao slušajući jednu radijsku emisiju dok se vozio automobilom u Zagreb.
---
---
- Slušan ja kako se prepiru Triljani i Sinjani čiji je Gaj Liberije. I onda mi je sinulo da bi ih ja moga pomirit tako da osmislin utakmicu Dalmate - Rimljani, nogometnu, koja će ih primirit i povezat – prisjeća se Boris iz Jabuke, koji nije bacio jabuku razdora, nego sloge među građane dva istaknuta grada Cetinske krajine.
Uživa se i u uvoznim žabama
Na rimski nogomet nadovezala se i spiza, pa tako jedino u "Premijera" možete pojesti antičke kruščiće od dvije vrste pšenice, obogaćene s čak pet vrsta sireva (Libum), kobasice Lucanicae (Lukanijeve kobasice), odojka pečenog s medom i začinjenog lovorom (Porcellum Olaureatum), teletinu s umakom na starorimski (Vitulinam Elixam), pastrvu u umaku od trava (Piscibus), i druge neobične delicije s okusom drevne prošlosti. Od slatkoga na tom tragu u "Premijeru" pripremaju okruglice s medom (Globos), Dulciju Domesticu ili domaću poslasticu (na bazi datulja), ili pak "patinu od krušaka" (Patina de Piris). Muslum ili vino s medom posebno je zanimljiva delicija koja se pije uz bilo što.
Jedan od tajnih začina jela je - također antički – Garum. Taj se dobiva od usoljene ribe različitih vrsta, "krasi ga" veoma neugodan vonj kad poprima tekuće agregatno stanje, ali u kombinaciji sa sveprisutnim medom jelo začinjeno garumom poprima obrise prave simfonije na tanjuru. Lovora također ima u mnogočemu (i to ne samo kao dekoracija), u "Premijeru" su uistinu uspjeli rekonstruirati antiku na pjatu, u kojemu nema jedino – divljih golubova, popularnih jestvina u to davno vrijeme. Danas asocijacija na golubove malo kome može otvoriti apetit...
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---
- To nemamo, a u zadnje vrime nam je sve teže nabavit i riječne rakove; jednostavno ih nema, niti iz uvoza. Žabe ipak rješavamo iz uvoza, najbolje su turske, najsličnije našima. Kineske se nisu pokazale tako kvalitetne. Domaćih žaba? Nema ih odavno! Valjda se klima prominila, zagađenja su učinila svoje, nešto žaba jedino se može u Bosni nać, to je najbliže di još krekeću. Mi se, kažem, pokrivamo iz turskog uvoza – napominje naš sugovornik.
Zelenjak bogatiji blitvom od soparnika
U vrijeme kad su krčmu "Gaz" vodili njegovi roditelji, pokojna Slavka (Slava, idemo kod Slave, govorili su ljudi) i također pokojni Ivan, već su oboje bili oboružani iskustvom rada u drugim objektima, kod drugih vlasnika prije osamostaljenja. Bio je to sam početak šezdesetih, svijet je tresla seksualna revolucija, Beatlesi su osvajali europsku scenu, a na Gazu je bila u toku melioracija rijeke Rude, što je značilo puno gladnih radnika koji su se krijepili domaćom spizom upravo u krčmi "Gaz".
No, uz (zemljo)radničku klasu na putu za polja, u "Gazu" su jeli i oni puno finćukastiji, kojima također nisu bile mrske dobre i kripne pjatance.
---
---
- Dolazila je kod Slave i Ivana, mojih roditelja, i gospoda iz Sinja pa čak i onda dalekog Splita. Bija je čuven još onda naš pivac lešo, pečena janjetina, domaći pršut i sir, žabe i rakovi na svakojake načine pripremljeni, pastrva pečena ili lešo...
Tada je se jila i lizibaka – riba sitna, a delikatesna. Od nje bi se napravila juva, a onda bi se kuvane ribice pripremile ka za salatu: prolila bi se po njima kvasina, ulje, posula narizana kapula. Nema više lizibaki; otkad mi je otac umra, nisan je više vidija – malko se rastuži gazda.
Ono što je u restoranu ipak ostalo od davnina jesu i pivac, i janjac, žabe, doduše iz uvoza, ali i originalni zelenjak. To je lokalna riječ za ono što mi poznajemo kao "soparnik".
---
---
- Soparnik je u Poljičkoj republici bija teži za napravit jer je tamo slabije rasla blitva nego u Sinjskom polju. Zato su joj, da je pojačaju kad je nestašica, dodavali kapulu. Ovde je blitve bilo uvik u izobilju, pa nam kapula ka "aditiv" nije tribala. Zato je naš "soparnik" zeleniji, otud naziv "zelenjak". Samo malo ulja i češnjaka po vrhu, sve drugo je devedeset posto zelen, blitva – pojašnjava.
Iskorak prema burgerima
Adut "Premijerove" kuhinje od davnina je i orzotto sa žabama, a bez uštipka i domaćeg kajmaka nema pravog starta. Normalno, i koja žestica uvijek dobro dođe...
Otprije nekog vremena, nakon što je krčma "Gaz" devedesetih godina postala restoran "Premijer Gaz", u ponudi su i – pizze.
- Mora san, puno nam dice dolazi ovde na izlete, najviše zbog prirode i konja – kao da se malko opravdava naš domaćin.
Treba pratiti trendove ako želiš opstati na tržištu, gurmani znaju što je rijetka i dobra pjatanca, ali puno ljudi želi se jednostavno i dobro najesti – pogotovo prosječni turisti, kojima gastronomski storytelling ne znači previše. Zato "Premijer" uvodi još jednu novitadu.
---
---
- Glavna kuharica je jedna od mojih kćeri, Andrea Gilić, i druge dvije rade u "Premijeru" (sin je u državnoj službi). Andrea radi sve, čak i soparnik, to jest zelenjak, ali triba ić naprid. Zato smo uz konzultantsku pomoć repera i kralja burgera Renmena (Renata Đošića, nap.a.) uveli liniju premium Premijer burgera, s najboljim domaćim mesom, povrćem iz lokalne nabave i friškim bublicama. Krećemo s tim od sredine siječnja – to ne znači da i dalje nećemo imat antička jela i ova autohtona, po kojima smo čuveni od samog početka – napominje stari gazda poduzetnog, mladalačkog duha.
Pitamo ga koji je "slatki forte" kuće, uz spomenute antičke poslastice.
- Palačinki ima uvik. I štrudela od jabuke, pite od jabuka. Red je, ipak smo u Jabuci – namiguje Boris Grubišić Čabo, prvi čovjek "Premijera".
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Joško Šupić/Cropix
Boris Grubišić Čabo, vlasnik restorana ‘Premijer Gaz‘ u Jabuci, s dijelom delicija koje se nude gostima
Joško Šupić/Cropix
Boris Grubišić Čabo, vlasnik restorana ‘Premijer Gaz‘ u Jabuci, s dijelom delicija koje se nude gostima
Joško Šupić/Cropix
Boris Grubišić Čabo na ideju o kreiranju antičkog jelovnika u Jabuci kod Trilja došao je slušajući jednu radijsku emisiju dok se vozio automobilom u Zagreb
Joško Šupić/Cropix
Boris Grubišić Čabo: Dolazila je kod Slave i Ivana, mojih roditelja, i gospoda iz Sinja pa čak i onda dalekog Splita. Bija je čuven naš pivac lešo, pečena janjetina, domaći pršut i sir, žabe i rakovi, pastrva...
Joško Šupić/Cropix
Boris Grubišić Čabo, čovjek koji dokazano vidi ispred vremena – čak i kad se vraća u prošlost
Joško Šupić/Cropix
Restoran ‘Premijer Gaz‘ razvio se na baštini krčme Gaz koju su vodili Borisovi roditelji, Slavka i Ivan Grubišić Čabo
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13. svibanj 2024 12:46
