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Priča o Dolu počinje puno prije nego što se kao putnik namjernik ukrcate na trajekt Split – Supetar. Počinje već u onim izmaštanim razgovorima koje ljudi vode prije godišnjih odmora. Znate već: "Ajme da mi je otić negdje u neko malo misto, mirno i bez šušura... samo konoba i samoposluga. Postoje li više takva mista uopće?"

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Nikola Vilić/Cropix
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E pa jedan takav sačuvani nazorovski gaj, to vam je Dol. Duga udolina u koju se skreće nakon 15 minuta vožnje od Supetra do Postira, cestom uz borovinu kroz koju se vidi more.

Na križanju, koje lijevo skreće za Postira, friška arija vas sama odvuče desno, još kilometar-dva kroz guste redove lozja, dok ne stignete u brački Betlehem.

Dol doista izgleda biblijski. Smješten je u kotlini, kojoj se po obroncima steru stare kuće, najvećim dijelom još uvijek pokrivene kamenim pločama namjesto kupa. A onda, tu su i famozne špilje, neke plitke, taman za dječju igru, a neke duboke dovoljno da sklone svijet pred elementima prirode i burne povijesti... ili pastira s njegovim stadom.

Mala je to zajednica. U Dolu danas nema 150 ljudi, a dani njegove najveće naseljenosti protežu se u polovicu 18. stoljeća, kad ih je bilo tek dvostruko više.

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Nikola Vilić/Cropix
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Kao i ostala bračka mjestašca – a još su sitniji Dračevica, Bobovišća i Murvica – Dol ljubomorno čuva svoju baštinu. A ima i što. Recimo, u sredini te krune od kućica i špilja nalazi se brežuljak Glavica, obrubljen čempresima, među kojima je i crkvica sv. Petra. To malo sakralno zdanje s kraja 11. stoljeća podsjetnik je na to kako je ta udolina bila naseljena i prije prvog spomena Dola 1337. Nije manje zanimljivo ni to da je na njoj najstarije sačuvano zvono na otoku Braču, koje također datira u 14. stoljeće.

Odavde se na Dol pruža pogled koji ga obujmljuje kao u staklenoj kugli. Samo što umjesto pahuljica zrakom šaraju lastavice. Gledajući odatle to ubavo mjesto, na desnoj ćete strani vidjeti kaštel Gospodnetić, roskastu kamenu dvokatnicu iz 17. stoljeća s jakim zidom, danas poznato agroturističko ugostiteljstvo, a na lijevoj strani, nedaleko od mjesne crkve, par konoba. Tu vas čekaju svi gušti i delicije bračke kužine, od domaćeg prošeka i vina u obiteljskim bićerinima i žmulima, preko ekskluzivnog bračkog menija, sira, janjetine, oborite ribe i maslinova ulja, do rožate i autentične "doljanske" torte hrapoćuše.

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Tom Dubravec/Cropix
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Potonja je tako nazvana jer podsjeća na istomeni lokalno vađeni kamen od kojega su napravljeni svi suhozidi i kuće u mjestu.

Nije potrebno više od nekoliko sati da vam Dol do sita nahrani dušu i tijelo. Toliko je dovoljno da odete s osjećajem da ste posjetili i osjetili jedno "smišno malo misto", Brač u njegovoj intimi. A imat ćete i odgovor na pitanje koje je uvijek u podsvijesti putovanja. Postoje takva mjesta. Među najljepšima je upravo Dol.

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Priča o Dolu počinje puno prije nego što se kao putnik namjernik ukrcate na trajekt Split – Supetar. Počinje već u onim izmaštanim razgovorima koje ljudi vode prije godišnjih odmora. Znate već: "Ajme da mi je otić negdje u neko malo misto, mirno i bez šušura... samo konoba i samoposluga. Postoje li više takva mista uopće?"

---

image
Nikola Vilić/Cropix
---

E pa jedan takav sačuvani nazorovski gaj, to vam je Dol. Duga udolina u koju se skreće nakon 15 minuta vožnje od Supetra do Postira, cestom uz borovinu kroz koju se vidi more.

Na križanju, koje lijevo skreće za Postira, friška arija vas sama odvuče desno, još kilometar-dva kroz guste redove lozja, dok ne stignete u brački Betlehem.

Dol doista izgleda biblijski. Smješten je u kotlini, kojoj se po obroncima steru stare kuće, najvećim dijelom još uvijek pokrivene kamenim pločama namjesto kupa. A onda, tu su i famozne špilje, neke plitke, taman za dječju igru, a neke duboke dovoljno da sklone svijet pred elementima prirode i burne povijesti... ili pastira s njegovim stadom.

Mala je to zajednica. U Dolu danas nema 150 ljudi, a dani njegove najveće naseljenosti protežu se u polovicu 18. stoljeća, kad ih je bilo tek dvostruko više.

---

image
Nikola Vilić/Cropix
---

Kao i ostala bračka mjestašca – a još su sitniji Dračevica, Bobovišća i Murvica – Dol ljubomorno čuva svoju baštinu. A ima i što. Recimo, u sredini te krune od kućica i špilja nalazi se brežuljak Glavica, obrubljen čempresima, među kojima je i crkvica sv. Petra. To malo sakralno zdanje s kraja 11. stoljeća podsjetnik je na to kako je ta udolina bila naseljena i prije prvog spomena Dola 1337. Nije manje zanimljivo ni to da je na njoj najstarije sačuvano zvono na otoku Braču, koje također datira u 14. stoljeće.

Odavde se na Dol pruža pogled koji ga obujmljuje kao u staklenoj kugli. Samo što umjesto pahuljica zrakom šaraju lastavice. Gledajući odatle to ubavo mjesto, na desnoj ćete strani vidjeti kaštel Gospodnetić, roskastu kamenu dvokatnicu iz 17. stoljeća s jakim zidom, danas poznato agroturističko ugostiteljstvo, a na lijevoj strani, nedaleko od mjesne crkve, par konoba. Tu vas čekaju svi gušti i delicije bračke kužine, od domaćeg prošeka i vina u obiteljskim bićerinima i žmulima, preko ekskluzivnog bračkog menija, sira, janjetine, oborite ribe i maslinova ulja, do rožate i autentične "doljanske" torte hrapoćuše.

---

image
Tom Dubravec/Cropix
---

Potonja je tako nazvana jer podsjeća na istomeni lokalno vađeni kamen od kojega su napravljeni svi suhozidi i kuće u mjestu.

Nije potrebno više od nekoliko sati da vam Dol do sita nahrani dušu i tijelo. Toliko je dovoljno da odete s osjećajem da ste posjetili i osjetili jedno "smišno malo misto", Brač u njegovoj intimi. A imat ćete i odgovor na pitanje koje je uvijek u podsvijesti putovanja. Postoje takva mjesta. Među najljepšima je upravo Dol.

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Tom Dubravec/Cropix Tom Dubravec/Cropix Tom Dubravec/Cropix Nikola Vilić/Cropix Tom Dubravec/Cropix Nikola Vilić/Cropix
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MOZAIKDALMACIJE
18754368
Dol na Braču

Postoje mala mjesta, ljupka i bez šušura... Među najljepšima je Dol

Piše Jakov Kosanović
Foto Tom Dubravec/Cropix
29. srpnja 2021. - 15:59

Priča o Dolu počinje puno prije nego što se kao putnik namjernik ukrcate na trajekt Split – Supetar. Počinje već u onim izmaštanim razgovorima koje ljudi vode prije godišnjih odmora. Znate već: "Ajme da mi je otić negdje u neko malo misto, mirno i bez šušura... samo konoba i samoposluga. Postoje li više takva mista uopće?"

image
Nikola Vilić/Cropix

E pa jedan takav sačuvani nazorovski gaj, to vam je Dol. Duga udolina u koju se skreće nakon 15 minuta vožnje od Supetra do Postira, cestom uz borovinu kroz koju se vidi more.

Na križanju, koje lijevo skreće za Postira, friška arija vas sama odvuče desno, još kilometar-dva kroz guste redove lozja, dok ne stignete u brački Betlehem.

Dol doista izgleda biblijski. Smješten je u kotlini, kojoj se po obroncima steru stare kuće, najvećim dijelom još uvijek pokrivene kamenim pločama namjesto kupa. A onda, tu su i famozne špilje, neke plitke, taman za dječju igru, a neke duboke dovoljno da sklone svijet pred elementima prirode i burne povijesti... ili pastira s njegovim stadom.

Mala je to zajednica. U Dolu danas nema 150 ljudi, a dani njegove najveće naseljenosti protežu se u polovicu 18. stoljeća, kad ih je bilo tek dvostruko više.

image
Nikola Vilić/Cropix

Kao i ostala bračka mjestašca – a još su sitniji Dračevica, Bobovišća i Murvica – Dol ljubomorno čuva svoju baštinu. A ima i što. Recimo, u sredini te krune od kućica i špilja nalazi se brežuljak Glavica, obrubljen čempresima, među kojima je i crkvica sv. Petra. To malo sakralno zdanje s kraja 11. stoljeća podsjetnik je na to kako je ta udolina bila naseljena i prije prvog spomena Dola 1337. Nije manje zanimljivo ni to da je na njoj najstarije sačuvano zvono na otoku Braču, koje također datira u 14. stoljeće.

Odavde se na Dol pruža pogled koji ga obujmljuje kao u staklenoj kugli. Samo što umjesto pahuljica zrakom šaraju lastavice. Gledajući odatle to ubavo mjesto, na desnoj ćete strani vidjeti kaštel Gospodnetić, roskastu kamenu dvokatnicu iz 17. stoljeća s jakim zidom, danas poznato agroturističko ugostiteljstvo, a na lijevoj strani, nedaleko od mjesne crkve, par konoba. Tu vas čekaju svi gušti i delicije bračke kužine, od domaćeg prošeka i vina u obiteljskim bićerinima i žmulima, preko ekskluzivnog bračkog menija, sira, janjetine, oborite ribe i maslinova ulja, do rožate i autentične "doljanske" torte hrapoćuše.

image
Tom Dubravec/Cropix

Potonja je tako nazvana jer podsjeća na istomeni lokalno vađeni kamen od kojega su napravljeni svi suhozidi i kuće u mjestu.

Nije potrebno više od nekoliko sati da vam Dol do sita nahrani dušu i tijelo. Toliko je dovoljno da odete s osjećajem da ste posjetili i osjetili jedno "smišno malo misto", Brač u njegovoj intimi. A imat ćete i odgovor na pitanje koje je uvijek u podsvijesti putovanja. Postoje takva mjesta. Među najljepšima je upravo Dol.

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19. svibanj 2024 03:38