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'Jednog vrućeg srpanjskog dana, čekala sam u kafiću u Dubrovniku da se pojavi gazda apartmana kojeg sam iznajmila. Kasnio je više od sata i meni, kao nestrpljivoj Njujorčanki, nije bilo jasno zašto', započinje svoju priču novinarka BBC-a, Kristin Vuković, porijeklom Hrvatica.
'Znate li možda Peru? Čekam ga već sat vremena', pitala sam konobara.
'Uhvatila ga fjaka', odgovorio je konobar bez imalo uzbuđivanja.
Pero je naposljetku ipak došao, ne nudeći ni objašnjenje ni ispriku za svoje kašnjenje.
Kristin se tad prvi put srela s fenomenom fjake. Kako su joj objasnili lokalni ljudi, to je 'stanje kad težite ničemu', a smatra se, ni manje ni više, nego darom od Boga. Fjaku je teško objasniti, ona se mora doživjeti, a na vrućem ljetnom suncu ubrzo ćete shvatiti o čemu se radi.
'Prvi put sam čula za fjaku kad sam 2004. studirala Hrvatski jezik u Dubrovniku. Bilo je to prije turističkog buma i puno prije nego su se na ulicama grada snimale epizode 'Igre prijestolja' i 'Ratova zvijezda'. Nije bilo puno turista, i mogla sam čuti zvuk udaranja mojih japanki po stoljetnim kamenim ulicama. Sjela sam u kafić Festival na Stradunu i naručila bijelu kavu. Preznojavala sam se kroz odjeću, promatrala prolaznike, piskarala nešto u svoj dnevnik i sati su polagano prolazili. Zbog visoke temperature, osjećala sam se kao da me netko prebio. Na koncu sam jedna smogla snage podignuti olovku, a misle su mi vrludale poput čiopa na nebu. Flaka me uhvatila u svoje čvrste ralje baš kao što opisuje fraza koju sam poslije naučila: 'Ajme, judi, uvatila me fjaka!' Energija mi je bila na nuli, ništa nisam mogla raditi.
I splitski pisac Jakša Fjamengo opisuje ovo neobično stanje. 'To je kao nesvjesnost, posebna vrsta nepokretnosti, pospanosti, ukočenosti, umora i ravnodušnosti prema svim važnim stvarima, opća pasivnost na putu prema sveukupnom ništavilu. Pojam vremena se potpuno izgubio, osjećate se kao da ste i negdje i nigdje, nekako na pola puta.'
Kristin Vuković prigrlila je i fjaku i ovdašnji način života. Štviše, Hrvatska joj se toliko svjedjela da se ovdje, u Dubrovniku, i udala. I više se nije nervirala ako joj netko kasni na sastanak. Shvatila je zašto se to događa.
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'Jednog vrućeg srpanjskog dana, čekala sam u kafiću u Dubrovniku da se pojavi gazda apartmana kojeg sam iznajmila. Kasnio je više od sata i meni, kao nestrpljivoj Njujorčanki, nije bilo jasno zašto', započinje svoju priču novinarka BBC-a, Kristin Vuković, porijeklom Hrvatica.
'Znate li možda Peru? Čekam ga već sat vremena', pitala sam konobara.
'Uhvatila ga fjaka', odgovorio je konobar bez imalo uzbuđivanja.
Pero je naposljetku ipak došao, ne nudeći ni objašnjenje ni ispriku za svoje kašnjenje.
Kristin se tad prvi put srela s fenomenom fjake. Kako su joj objasnili lokalni ljudi, to je 'stanje kad težite ničemu', a smatra se, ni manje ni više, nego darom od Boga. Fjaku je teško objasniti, ona se mora doživjeti, a na vrućem ljetnom suncu ubrzo ćete shvatiti o čemu se radi.
'Prvi put sam čula za fjaku kad sam 2004. studirala Hrvatski jezik u Dubrovniku. Bilo je to prije turističkog buma i puno prije nego su se na ulicama grada snimale epizode 'Igre prijestolja' i 'Ratova zvijezda'. Nije bilo puno turista, i mogla sam čuti zvuk udaranja mojih japanki po stoljetnim kamenim ulicama. Sjela sam u kafić Festival na Stradunu i naručila bijelu kavu. Preznojavala sam se kroz odjeću, promatrala prolaznike, piskarala nešto u svoj dnevnik i sati su polagano prolazili. Zbog visoke temperature, osjećala sam se kao da me netko prebio. Na koncu sam jedna smogla snage podignuti olovku, a misle su mi vrludale poput čiopa na nebu. Flaka me uhvatila u svoje čvrste ralje baš kao što opisuje fraza koju sam poslije naučila: 'Ajme, judi, uvatila me fjaka!' Energija mi je bila na nuli, ništa nisam mogla raditi.
I splitski pisac Jakša Fjamengo opisuje ovo neobično stanje. 'To je kao nesvjesnost, posebna vrsta nepokretnosti, pospanosti, ukočenosti, umora i ravnodušnosti prema svim važnim stvarima, opća pasivnost na putu prema sveukupnom ništavilu. Pojam vremena se potpuno izgubio, osjećate se kao da ste i negdje i nigdje, nekako na pola puta.'
Kristin Vuković prigrlila je i fjaku i ovdašnji način života. Štviše, Hrvatska joj se toliko svjedjela da se ovdje, u Dubrovniku, i udala. I više se nije nervirala ako joj netko kasni na sastanak. Shvatila je zašto se to događa.
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16. svibanj 2024 11:39
